06 Host Rainier SS, 07 Classic GMC Sierra 3500 DRW. The square thrust washer is typically gouged and worn. Only when you truly pull it all apart, that square washer with the grease pockets and the worm gear are about 98% of the problem. When my jacks start struggling, the gear box is fine, the crown gears are fine. My feet are fine as long as they are traveling.Īaa yes, IMHO, all the lube needs to be in the worm gear. Thanks for the post, mine are old enough that they do not have the disengagement lever but the everything else should be the same. MMMMMM.haven't got to that yet but I wonder if they sell it seperatly? Does any one know? One other note is that if the worm drive of the leg was to wear out.seems like you should be able to replace it rather than the whole jack. I found that even though this jack was sticking on me, it was still pretty well lubed, but maybe not enough.Hope this dispels any unknown facts as to how these things work. Re-assembly is just the opposite of the tear down.
Use an air ratchet or drill to turn the worm screw all the way out, inspect and re lube. Pull this cinch spring off and inspect this bearing. Now pull the leg assembly out of the jack housing. Rotate the shaft so the pin is facing towards the corner and pull it out. IT IS IMPORTANT YOU PUT THIS BACK TOGETHER THE WAY IT COMES APART! The slot that has the closed ends is what holds the pin in place. Once the gear comes off, this is what the back looks like. You may have to do it a few times, the shaft gets a little burr on it but if it gets stuck ,just push it down and keep yanking, it will come off! Use that tool again to hook the gear from behind and pull it. What your going to do next is pull this gear off that shaft straight towards you. Now as you can see the oil really goes nowhere.
HAVOK JOURNAL RIPIT MANUAL
Once you pull out the socket, remove the manual gear. This is the hole in the socket that is to be oiled, but as you can see in the next few pics, the only thing that is being lubed is the socket itself. Once you get the clip off then pull out the manual socket. Just put it in from the side and pull back. There is a "C" clip here, you need to remove it with the little tool you made. one side has a round hole and the other an oval shape where the lever goes.
Remove the internal plastic manual mechanism.note how this is installed. Wedge them underneath and they pop right out. Remove the lever and pin.a pair of flush wire cutters works well.
Remove the two screws that hold on the motor. This will serve two purposes, explanations following. This is a model 4150.įirst you have to make a little tool like this. This is a little lengthy but most will find the education worth the read.
HAVOK JOURNAL RIPIT HOW TO
This is UNTRUE! I now have a complete tear down with pics to show everyone what goes on inside and how to disassemble and lube the working parts if need be. It has been a misconception even on my part, that adding machine oil to the crank socket lubricates the jack itself. Thanks to the new Chrome extension, the pics are back! You must view in Chrome with the extention. Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Truck Campers: Happijac lubrication Open Roads Forum
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